Trek of the Mandalay Battalion, Burma Military Police – May 1942
This is the diary of the Battalion Commandant’s Party, Mandalay Battalion, B.M.P. during the withdrawal from Burma, May 1942, written by Lt. Colonel Alexander William Learmond, Battalion Commandant.
By kind permission of the Learmond family.
The Diary
1st May Lt. Col. A.W. Learmond, I.A., Battalion Commandant, left Tantabin by special train with Battalion Headquarters, part of the Tantabin force, and 2 troops Mounted Infantry, with intention of establishing H.Q. at Naba. Reached Kanbalu and arranged with Lt. Col. Edwards of Burma Railways for the Kanbalu and Kawlin Forces to be collected by the last railway special in due course.
2nd May Special train passed through Kawlin and Wunthe, where B.C. saw Capt. C.G.B. Scovell, Assistant Commandant, in charge at Kawlin, who had gone to Wuntho to contact the Ordnance Forwarding Officer and also a Rangoon Battalion (B.M.P.) Platoon sent there for patrolling and placed under his command. B.C. warned A.C. to be ready to leave Kawlin for Naba at very short notice. B.C.’s train continued its slow journey; A.C. returned to Kawlin and started the loading of rations, etc., in two empty wagons.
3rd May At 05.00 hours an evacuation special reached Kawlin and as it’s engine had to go on to Wuntho and back for water, A.C. went with it and warned Rangoon Platoon and Ordnance Officer to be ready to leave by this train. Later a railway special passed through with our two platoons Sikhs from Kanbalu and Col. Edwards, who said that another train, probably the last, was coming up with A.H.Q. families and the (military) Chinese Liaison Mission. Finished loading ration trucks and had them attached to this train which arrived at 10.00 hours, Major MacConachie, D.A.A.G. A.H.Q., being O.C. train. A.C. and the two platoon Gurkhas boarded the train. C.L. Mission detrained at Wuntho, intending to take the Pinlebu route to the Chindwin; passed a Chinese troop special which had been here for 24 hours, and reached Gyodaung.
4th May The various trains moved on, running without “line clear” as the railway signalling system had broken down, and all reached Indaw beyond which the line was blocked. All detrained and prepared to leave on foot for Homalin. Lt. Col. de Wilton (Supplies) informed B.C. that Major Enriquez with the Katha detachment had left Katha today and would follow on a day behind. Jam. Bhim Bahadur and 25 other Gurkha ranks elected to try to get through to Myitkyina to contact their families. (this party reached Mogaung on 9th May, whence the majority continued towards Myitkyina while the Jemadar and 7 others took the Hukawng Valley route and eventually reached Assam). The 73 ponies, less a few kept for riding, were taken with rations, battalion treasury, compounders medicine chest, etc., this work being finished by 22.30 hours. Reached Nantha, where the B.C.’s advance party (which included two fugitives from the Alon bombing) had camped by the roadside, about 0200 hours, the Gurkhas, marching very slowly in the heat of the night, arriving about 0400 hours. A platoon of Gloucesters reinforcements, under Lieut. Naskell, had come under our wing as none of them knew the country or the language.
(8½ miles from Indaw)
5th May Stayed at Nantha during the day to get re-organised and rested. Major Sullivan and Butcher of IO Burif present. Road full of civil evacuees. Moved on in the evening and camped on Maza river bank at M.S. 18. Gurkhas, now under Jam. Sukbahadar, again very slow; Glosters also exhausted owing to heat, but all benefited from bathe in river.
(9½ miles; 18 miles from Indaw)
6th May Continued in morning to camp site in Meza tributary, Banmauk Chaung, at Kywegawgon; in evening continued to excellent site near Inbin , above Banmauk village, of which Chinese had taken possession; they had no objection to our helping ourselves to paddy for the ponies. Some officers of Tennasserin Battalion, B.A.F., were met here; also Lt. Col. Drysdale, and Capt. Murray and Stracey of P.O.L. group. Six ponies left here for Major Enriquez’ party.
(18 miles; 31 miles from Indaw)
7th May Crossed two small watersheds to midday halting place near Pinhingon at m.s.41. A.C. cycled onto Thayetron and found supplies no longer there, though Col. de Wilton was said to have left some for us. Found Col. Drysdale at the Ipongyi kyanng and obtained a promise of two bags of rice and some tinned food. Some P.M.’s found stealing fruit from an occupied compound in Pinhingon were brought before B.C. and fined, the amount being given to the owner as compensation. Battalion moved on in evening to camp site on Chaunggyi Chaung bank 2 miles beyond Thayetkon. Maskell of Glosters brought in in collapsed condition and revived with brandy and marmite.
(17 miles; 48 from Indaw)
8th May March continued to Hwemaukkan and on to a small stream 1 1/2 miles beyond where there was good water including a cold pool below some rocks. Two bags rice received from Col. Drysdale were left at Thayetlon for Major Enriquez’s party; tinned goods given to Glosters. No evening march as men were tired after yesterday’s long march in the heat, and this was a good camping ground which we had to ourselves, unlike the main Hwemaukkan Chaung which was packed with civil refugees.
(16 miles; 58 miles from Indaw)
9th May Crossed by a graded but very steep zigzag path the 1750 range of hills dividing Katha from Upper Chindwin, to Pt. 708 in Nanthabaik Chaung, a filthy site but with good water from a cool gorge just above. On the way up a pony was lent to Col. Carrier who had nearly collapsed, and for the afternoon march Col. Edwards was similarly helped; this led up another stiff climb followed by a long downhill spur to Na-Aungpaung in the Uyu Plain, where we camped by a broad sandy stream, a tributary of the Uyu river.
(18½ miles; 70½ miles from Indaw)
10th May More ponies were lent to the senior sick, including Col Stewart (Defence Bursar) and Col. Hodge (S.A.F.) The morning march was to Man Tin and the evening one to Maingkaing on the Uyu. Here we found a notice (signed by B.E. Smythies of Forest Dept.) advising people to take the Tonhe route, going direct from Naungpu-Aung and not to Homalin, and also saying that the headman had money for purchase of rice. Headman however had gone away (unfortunately the Chinese troops - General Lou’s bodyguard - had just arrived via Mansi) and stocks had been looted. Camped in a big hpongyi-kyanng, being driven indoors during the night by the first rain of the journey.
(19 miles; 95½ miles from Indaw)
11th May Stayed at Maingkaing for the morning to rest, and in evening continued to Tonkan. Flat country, but there were two different creeks, at both of which bamboo-and-earth footbridges had begun to give way. At the first, Gurkhas cut brushwood and eventually all ponies got across the bridge, but the second was too far gone and ponies had to be unloaded and sent down and up very steep banks, all this taking much time. After second crossing, in the dark, a Sikh, leading his pony, fell and cut his head and had to be helped along; the last animals reached Tonkan at 23.30 hours; camped in pongyi-kyanng. Heavy thunderstorm at night. (12 miles; 107½ miles from Indaw)
12th May Through Naungpu-Aung (where we tried unsuccessfully to divert the flow of refugees to the direct Tonhe route; instead they followed us towards Homalin) to Satkaya for midday halt. On to Homalin in the afternoon, B.C. going ahead to contact D.C., supplies etc. Found the place practically deserted, D.C. and Commissioner having left for Tamanthe to come out direct from there. No dump, but managed to buy rice in a bazaar shop and obtained some dried fruit and corned beef which had been dropped by parachute. Occupied the empty B.M.P. lines.
(17½ miles; 125 miles from Indaw)
13th May Stayed at Homalin to rest men and ponies (of which five had had to be shot). B.C. went down by boat to Tonhe (35 miles by river) to organise supplies, rafts, etc. Several people, including Col. Abernethy and Col. Tudor Craig of 4 and II Burif, looked in and enquired about routes, as we had maps and other information; Col. Abernathy decided to take his battalion out by Somra Tract route. In evening Col. Stewart went down with cholera; tried to get a boat for him but couldn’t; got a small boat for rations, to go down next day. About 20.00 hours Captain E.G. Booker of Bhamo Battalion B.F.F. arrived, reporting that Major Enrique’ party (which he had joined at Katha) were some five miles away and would come in the early morning.
14th May Col Stewart so ill that Col. Carrier gave him only a few hours to live. A Gurkha was reported to have died of cholera during the night and was buried by his kind. Battalion moved out, Major Enriquez and party arriving just as they started, and turning about to go together to noon halt at Nyaunghintha three miles down. Sub. Zahar Mohd. made a litter on which M.I. carried Col. Stewart’s litter with Col. Carrier, A.C. and others, stopped at field paddy-sheds ¾ mile short, as very heavy rain came on.
(10 miles; 135 miles from Indaw)
15th May Col. Stewart better and likely to live; got a cart for him to village on Chindwin at end of bullock-track. Halted at this village for midday, and sent him down by boat in afternoon to Laungnin, the night halt. Ponies had to be unloaded and swum over two streams. Stayed at Pongyi Kyanng, the pongyis staying and welcoming us.
(11 miles; 146 miles from Indaw)
16th May On to Tonhe in one march, easy for 11 miles, where Satpa Chaung gave trouble, demanding unloading of animals; two boats end-on made a bridge for the men. A very steep climb to a high ridge made the last three miles more tiring. At Tonhe B.C. had taken charge of the abandoned river-boat and made arrangements for ferrying men and ponies, with some assistance from Marines who were here. Money left by Commission was distributed by B.C. to evacuees. Remains of ration dump which had been looted were collected cleaned and issued to troops and civilians.
(14 miles; 160 miles from Indaw)
17th May Up the long path to 2000 ft. pass and down by steep rocky path to Thanan in the Kabaw Valley. The climb though not excessively steep proved too much for some people and spare ponies were in great demand. Two already allotted to Craig of I.F. Co., with very bad feet, and Capt. Slade (lately SSO Mandalay) who was exhausted and suffering from dilated heart. Thanan very dirty, crowded, and with poor water supply. Discussed the route ahead with Brig. Martin of C.L. Mission and assisted his party with some transport.
(12 miles; 172 miles from Indaw)
18th May Had to leave Slade at Thanan as he was all in and could not sit on a pony; he died a few days later. Also left Cronch of C.L. Mission, with fever; he came on in a day or two. Crossed the Nam A-Ya, the Yu Channg tributary draining the upper Kabaw Valley, and entered India a mile further on. Then came a very steep ascent of 2000 ft., followed by a up-and-down path to Kangpat; continued straight on to Yu Channg, making a long march but giving us a camp on splendid water with grass for the ponies.
(16 miles; 188 miles from Indaw)
19th May A wet night in the open was followed by a similar miserable morning. Stayed on Yu Channg to give the ponies the benefit of the grazing, till evening when it cleared and we climbed the steady 1600 ft. to Kanggum, a mixed Chin and Naga village at 2500 ft. with good views over the surrounding hills. Col. Stewart’s litter borne by sepoys, the Shan coolies engaged at Tonhe having declined to come further than Yu Channg. Some Chinese had again overtaken us, but encamped at a village ½ mile away; a poor lot now, mostly without arms and obviously very tired.
(3 miles; 191 miles from Indaw)
20th May Did a fair single march, with refreshment by the way, to Kashom Khulan, just under 5000 ft. The path, an old bridle road from Wanching, was well graded but rain and the ponies hooves made the surface slippery. Put up, as last night, in houses in the village, the population being helpful as regards provisions, water, etc., at a price.
(16 miles; 207 miles from Indaw)
21st May The march had led around pt. 5746, about 150 ft. below the summit, to the fork where the short cut via Mollen leaves the graded path via Wanching. The last three miles on the short cut were very difficult for the ponies, the path being steep, narrow and muddy. Craig’s pony fell over the khud with him, both being miraculously unhurt. Mollen a poor camping place, crowded and wet. Some supplies here; rice, atta, sugar and milk; efforts to get any further eastward had failed, the path being too much for the mules.
(11 miles; 218 miles from Indaw)
22nd May Continued the descent to the Plain of Manipur, reaching Yaripok in the morning (from where Cols. Stewart and Carrier, and Craig, went by lorry direct to hospital at Imphal, being transferred to an ambulance en route) and on to Thousal in the afternoon.
(16 miles; 234 miles from Indaw)
23rd May A wet day. Stayed at Thoubal camp. The sick including Major Enriquez, Captain Booker, and Major Arjan Singh, were taken in lorries to Imphal. Major Sullivan and 17 other officers of 10th and other Burif units, arrived and spent the night. Six more ponies shot, in addition to one that had to be destroyed yesterday on the way in, making a total of 12 destroyed, 61 remaining. B.C. went into Imphal to collect information.
24th May A.C. took 20 fairly fit ponies up to Phanjoukhong, at the foot of the climb to Mollen, to bring in any sick who might need this assistance, but found none; also found that bullock-carts were getting up as far as that. On the way back met a mule train that had set out with supplies for Kashom Khulen by the Wangching route, but had been mis-directed back on to the Mollen short cut - the Sikh captain in charge having no map, so we gave him ours. B.C. returned from Imphal with news and supplies.
25th May Another day at Thoubal, holding kit inspection, paying special allowances to M.I., etc. and generally getting ready to go into Imphal.
26th May Marched into Imphal, B.C. going ahead to arrange accommodation, and took up our quarters in one of the enclosed “villages” just beyond the bombed-out bazaar.
(14 miles; 248 miles from Indaw)